It must take a brave chef to dedicate his workday to cooking pig — well, many parts of the pig, from ears to even the tail. One can never be sure what goes into the cookpot at D.C.’s the Pig.

Evidently, patrons love Garret Fleming’s pork-based dishes, and with good reason: He’s a creative chef who can transform braised pork cheeks into a dish of fork-tender pork with grits. He can turn wild boar into a luscious, winey ragu. And he seems comfortable working with pork belly and even pig brains.