When the news broke that one of Washington’s most famous chefs had returned to the kitchen, foodies applauded: Roberto Donna, of the Galileo and Bebo Trattoria fame, was back behind the stove. But this time, he is shaping his pastas in a small, contemporary restaurant on New Mexico Avenue. As executive chef at la Forchetta, Donna has full reign over an all-Italian menu that reflects his creativity and Italian heritage.