What do you say when a friend you met through an online wine chat room invites you to dinner at his home to help taste through a plethora of Bordeaux wines from 1970? Well, if you’re looking to gain a little insight into the ageability of these legendary châteaux wines from a better-than-average vintage, and you’re looking for something new to write about, the answer, of course, is, “What time would you like me to be there?”
Well, that is exactly what happened to us recently. So we took the opportunity to saddle up our wine glasses and take a few notes.
Now it would be helpful to know that when it comes to “old” Old World wines, such as Bordeaux, we tend to gravitate toward opposite corners of the ring. The Vine Gal likes her red wines with substantial dark fruit flavors up front balanced with long, lingering flavors of chocolate, licorice or vanilla on a sizable finish. The Vine Guy, on the other hand, prefers a red wine that possesses subtle flavors that seduce the palate in waves with little or no traditional fruit descriptors. While this tasting was definitely geared toward his palate, the Vine Gal definitely found a few of her own favorites.
In attendance were six other guests who can only be described as enthusiastic “wine litigators.” This is meant in the most complimentary fashion since it is rare to see a group of individuals debate the merit of each with such unmitigated passion. It was clear that we were in the company of knowledgeable wine enthusiasts, so we were anxious to listen to their opinions.
Note: Most of these wines have long flown off of the shelves of retailers and might be difficult to find — and expensive. Prices quoted are based on an average auction prices over the past year. Some retailers in the area that specialize in older Bordeaux wines might carry some of these wines and are worth calling. In the District, try Schneider’s of Capitol Hill (202-543-9300) or MacArthur Beverages (202-338-1433). In Maryland, contact State Line Liquors in Elkton (410-398-3838). In Virginia, try Total Wine & More in McLean (703-749-0011).
You may also want to log onto wine-searcher.com and enter your search parameters. Remember to check shipping requirements to your particular state and keep in mind, older wines are fragile and are susceptible to leakage during shipping. All wines listed are from the 1970 vintage in Bordeaux, France.
He Said
1970 Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac ($175)
This was my favorite wine of the night. Scents of bacon fat and smoked meats — reminiscent of a Cote Rotie from the Northern Rhone — dominated the nose. Beautifully integrated flavors of tar, tobacco and wild mushrooms drifted in, out and in again on the velvety finish. “Not bad for a wine older than me,” exclaimed our youngest guest.
1970 Chateau Pavie, St. Emilion ($135)
Surprisingly good fruit, featuring ripe red raspberries, hints of cassis and tobacco with decent structure. The almost-sweet finish was a pleasant discovery. A solid wine worth hunting down if you’re looking for a special “birth year” treat.
1970 Chateau La Tour Blanche, Sauternes ($125)
What a wonderful way to end the evening. This white dessert wine, known in wine crowds as a “sticky,” possessed remarkable balance. It was a little bit like drinking nectar from a coconut with a hint of pineapple throw in for excitement. While the age had definitely trimmed the sweetness factor down a notch, I think you could get another five years out of it.
She Said
1970 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac ($225)
This is the wine that did it for me. Remarkably young — even the color was still inky — the bouquet was full of tart cherries, cigar box and new leather scents. Flavors of red raspberries, cherries and cedar were a good juxtaposition to the dry, tannic finish. I think it’s at its peak.
1970 La Mission Haut Brion, Pessac ($230)
A great wine that is beginning to show its age. Several of the other guests selected this wine as their favorite, and while I enjoyed the woodsy nose of mushrooms and the lovely flavors of saddle leather, tobacco and dried herbs, I thought the finish was a little disjointed and shallow. It was still a crowd-pleaser.
1970 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac ($150)
I was mildly surprised how delicate this wine turned out to be. Usually known for larger-than-life blockbusters, the strawberries and rich earthy scents were unexpected and reminded one guest of”a mature Burgundy.” Pretty flavors of cherries, raspberries and strawberries were carried all the way through to the soft, satiny finish. A lovely wine that should be consumed sooner rather than later.
