The storied history of Freemark Abbey dates back to 1881 when John and Josephine Tychson purchased the original 147 acres north of St. Helena for $8,500. However, these days, Freemark Abbey is synonymous with Ted Edwards who has been a presence at the winery since 1985 as winemaker, managing partner, winemaster and currently the director of winemaking under the new ownership of Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke (of Kendall Jackson fame).
Scott — The Vine Guy — and I met Ted when he was in town during the summer as part of a whirlwind marketing tour for Freemark Abbey, showcasing their wines for the local wine trade. Food pairings were provided by ever-popular Blacksalt restaurant in the District. I have had the honor and pleasure of meeting a number of winemakers over the years, but Ted is one of the most unassuming people I have ever come across, with an ability to immediately put you at ease in his presence. He is a man who has been there, done that and is clearly comfortable in his own skin. And it shows in his wines as well.
Ted began his winemaking career in the usual fashion — tangentially straying off of a planned course. In his case, the course was supposed to involve a career in cooking. To paraphrase his remarks with a little editorial privilege, he was interested in cooking because “the chicks dig it” and he thought that in his youth it would be a handy tool for meeting women. But somewhere along the way, during his formal education at the University of California at Davis, (which includes a bachelor of science in biochemistry and a master’s degree in food, science and engineering), Ted got bit by the wine bug. It’s no surprise then that Ted approaches winemaking the same way he approaches cooking: As a multifactorial process that involves part science and part culinary arts.
Today, Freemark Abbey consists of five vineyards (Bosche, Sycamore, Red Barn Ranch, Frank Wood and Sons and Carpy-Conolly) totaling about 110 acres planted with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot, petit sirah, chardonnay and viognier. Ted has instituted a “Y” trellising system to maximize sun exposure for the vines, planted new root stock, and replanted vineyards to fine-tune varietals to the local microclimates mainly by removing pinot noir and replacing it with Bordeaux varietals such as merlot and sauvignon blanc.
Ted’s goal is to “keep wine simple and accessible” and “food-friendly.” After tasting his wines, I’d say he’s been there, done that. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Freemark Abbey Viognier, Carpy Ranch Vineyard, Napa Valley, Calif. ($21)
Viognier is a varietal that just doesn’t get enough attention and that’s really a shame because this wine is extraordinary. The bouquet is full of tropical fruit, white peach, ripe banana and acacia flowers. The mouthfeel is rich and luscious, with flavors of white nectarine, ripe pear, mango and green melon. The fresh finish features a touch of lemon-lime citrus that keeps the wine crisp and focused.
2007 Freemark Abbey Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Calif. ($19)
A good value for a quality oak-aged chardonnay, it features scents of ripe apple, lemon zest, apple blossom and baking spices on the fragrant nose. In the mouth, flavors of apple, peach, and toast coat the tongue. A touch of roasted almonds sneaks in on the back of the tongue and provides another layer of depth on the well-structured finish.
2004 Freemark Abbey Merlot, Napa Valley, Calif. ($25)
This vineyard blend of merlot grapes sports an intricate bouquet of cocoa, plum, spice and rhubarb. The fruit-driven palate is bursting with ripe plum, dark cherry, cassis and chocolate, all supported by sweet tannins on a medium frame. Hints of cloves on the finish add additional intrigue.
2004 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($35)
Scents of plum, blackberry and cassis dominate the nose and palate of this seductive cabernet. Additional notes of spice and dark cherry shine on this remarkably well-balanced wine. An accent of chocolate literally peaks on the finish, creating a wonderfully long, rich finish.
2002 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyard, Napa Valley, Calif. ($60)
Aged for two years in oak barrels, the bouquet opens with toasty oak and vanilla and then melds into blackberry jam and dark chocolate. A big, brooding wine, it offers a lot of ripe black fruit, cocoa and molasses on the front of the palate and earthier tones of tobacco and cedar on the long, persistent, well-structured finish.
2003 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Bouche Vineyard, Napa Valley, Calif. ($65)
The fruit for this big wine comes from the Bouche vineyard in the Rutherford Bench appellation of Napa. Captivating notes of black cherry, dark plum and orange rind stand out on the aromatic nose. Dark cherry dominates the palate with layers of dark chocolate and brown sugar completing the rich mouthfeel. Sweet-but-firm tannins provide significant structure and set the stage for the trademark “Rutherford Dust” on the long, long finish.
