Zeroing in on John Melfi’s Italian heritage explains why this young chef de cuisine makes such a natural fit for the kitchen of the fashionable Blue Duck Tavern. He understands ingredients and how to pair them for outstanding results. After all, he says, this Syracuse, N.Y., native grew up cooking in his Italian grandmother’s kitchen.

“My Italian grandmother … made everything from scratch, especially pasta,” he said. I started by making breakfast, and she oversaw what I was doing.”