On a train crossing from the Polish border into Ukraine, Hasidic pilgrims fill the carriages: men in black coats and wide-brimmed hats. Thirty thousand to 40,000 Hasidic Jews converge each Rosh Hashanah in Uman, undeterred by air raid sirens, to pray at the grave of Rabbi Nachman of Breslov.

But all is not well in the Ukraine-Israel relationship.