Chris Kempczinski is one of the great male beneficiaries of the #MeToo heyday, winning the internal promotion to replace McDonald’s CEO and president Steve Easterbrook after the latter was accused of improper sexual relations with his subordinates. Kempczinski, a marathon runner who claims he stays fit while eating at the restaurant daily by ordering Filet-O-Fish sandwiches without tartar sauce and Egg McMuffins sans bacon, has presided over a 68% increase in the brand’s stock price since taking over in 2019, slightly beating the Dow Jones Industrial Average in the past five years and generating twice as much revenue per restaurant than its closest competitors.

So when the ordinarily careful Kempczinski went viral for his video debuting the chain’s new “Big Arch” burger, the initial response was more amusement than alarm. In a clip that belies Kempczinski’s supposed passion for his own product, he struggles to take more than one bite of what the restaurant calls “the most McDonald’s McDonald’s burger yet.” But naturally, the burger itself — two quarter-pound beef patties, three slices of cheddar, topped with new special sauce on a poppy seed bun — intrigued me.