After many years behind others’ kitchen doors, Alexandria native Barry Koslow has moved into his own niche: He is chef and co-owner of Dupont Circle’s high-end, almost-kosher deli, DGS Delicatessen. That means Koslow has gathered all that he has learned after cooking in such restaurants as Equinox, 2941, Michel Richard Citronelle, now-closed Mendocino Grille, and Tallulah, and turned his knowledge and skills into preparing modern Jewish dishes in his own restaurant kitchen. Well, classical Jewish food with a Koslow modern twist.
Take the tongue sandwich called the Wally B in honor of one partner’s grandfather, for example. Traditionalists may eat such a sandwich with lots of mustard, maybe some lettuce or sauerkraut, all on rye. Koslow uses rye, of course, but adds pickled apple slices for a sweeter twist on this classic. He has also introduced several North African spices and preserved lemons, which spark his kasha varnishka dish of bowtie pasta, buckwheat and mushrooms.
